On International Women’s Day every year, the voices and stories of women across the world are celebrated, as we address the issues that cause gender inequality and diversity. But despite these issues remaining, such voices and stories take a backseat once the day is done.
We think it’s worth doing the opposite and actively challenging the issues that create these gaps in our industry, which is why we launched our weekly Wednesday Women series, where we profile the stories of the inspiring women in this great and wide industry.
Today we speak with Brooke Blair, the winemaker at Brand’s Laira, who describes her winemaking style as “interpreting nature through the lens of both science and creativity”.
Blending the precision of science with the intuition and artistry required in winemaking requires fine balance, says Blair.
“Winemaking is a constant dance between precision and intuition. Science gives us control – the ability to monitor fermentation, measure acidity, and ensure stability. But it is the artistic side that allows us to express a vision, to interpret what nature has given us in a way that is personal and meaningful. As a winemaker, you learn when to lean into the data and when to trust your palate. That balance is what makes the craft so rewarding.”
And that philosophy heavily influences her decisions in the vineyard.
“In the vineyard, science helps us track sugar levels and acidity, but it is sensory evaluation – tasting the fruit, observing the vine – that tells us when it is truly ready. In the winery, we rely on science to guide fermentation and analyse the wine’s structure, but blending is where our artistry takes over. It is about tasting, imagining, and crafting a wine that tells a story,” she tells The Shout.
Wines worth watching
For Blair, her work is more than just producing wine, it’s about expressing a vision, a terroir and a passion. With more than 65 years of Brand Laira’s viticultural heritage and legacy to honour, it’s something she approaches with deep respect, especially for the Terra Rossa soils and the fruit they produce.
“At the same time, I bring my own palate, experience, and passion to the table. My goal is to honour what makes this place special while continuing to evolve our wines in a way that feels authentic and exciting,” says Blair.
Blair’s commitment to evolution can be seen in her newly released 2024 Blockers Cabernet Sauvignon – a fruit-forward expression of place, crafted to reflect evolving consumer tastes while staying authentic to the Coonawarra.
Explaining how the wine remains true to the region’s roots while also appealing to modern palates, Blair says: “The 2024 Blockers Cabernet Sauvignon is all about freshness, balance, and vibrant fruit. It showcases classic Coonawarra hallmarks like cassis, blackcurrant, and that beautiful regional structure, but with a modern touch.
“We have used moderate oak to let the fruit shine and crafted plush, approachable tannins to suit evolving consumer tastes. It stays true to its roots while speaking to today’s drinkers.”
Beyond this, Blaire’s viticultural innovation extends to the new Cabernet clones she is trialling from Western Australia. Known for their density, elegance and classic cassis character, Blair is excited about the potential for these clones in the Coonawarra.
“These clones offer low-density canopies, early ripening, and small berries with concentrated flavours. They also tend to produce low-to-moderate yields with even ripening, all of which could enhance the quality and complexity of Coonawarra Cabernet. It is a chance to explore new dimensions of a varietal we already know and love.”
Central to Blair’s trials is ensuring that these clones can enhance, rather than compromise, the signature fruit grown in the Coonawarra.
“Our goal with these trials is not to change what Coonawarra Cabernet is, but to build on its strengths. These clones have proven themselves in Margaret River, and we are exploring how they might complement the exceptional fruit we already grow here. It is about enhancing the varietal’s expression, not compromising its identity. We are committed to maintaining the integrity of Coonawarra’s signature style whilst innovating and exploring the potential of these new clones.”
While the region is famed for its signature red varietal, Blair also champions white varietals as she shapes the next chapter of Brand Laira. Her Old Station Riesling recently claimed Double Gold at the Melbourne International Wine Show, while her new Sauvignon Blanc is described as a fresh take on what Coonawarra whites can be.
“Coonawarra is rightly celebrated for Cabernet Sauvignon, but it is also a fantastic region for white varietals like Sauvignon Blanc. The moderate daytime temperatures and cool nights allow for slow, even ripening, which delivers excellent fruit expression and acid retention. Consumers are looking for fresh, aromatic, lively whites, and this wine delivers. It is a fresh take that showcases what Coonawarra can do beyond red wine, and I am excited for people to experience that,” Blair added.