Australia’s liquor retail industry is an incredibly diverse landscape, from pioneering new trends to upholding time-honoured traditions. But beyond the brands and products, it is the individuals within this industry whose passion and dedication create such a dynamic market.
In each instalment of our ‘Five minutes with…’ series, National Liquor News puts the spotlight on a key figure in the industry, sharing a glimpse into their personality and the experiences that underpin their achievements.
Each fortnight, we will dive into the professional accomplishments and unique perspectives of our industry’s dynamic leaders, uncovering their personal stories of success.
This week we sat down with Alister Purbrick, who led Victoria’s oldest family-owned winery and vineyard Tahbilk for more than 45 years.
NLN: How long have you been with Tahbilk, and can you share a bit about your journey to the position you’re in now?
AP: My career in winemaking was ‘pre-ordained’ given my family’s long history in viticulture. I was thinking of politics as a career when I was sixteen or seventeen but, in the end, the family genes prevailed.
I graduated with a Diploma of Oenology from South Australia’s Roseworthy Agricultural College in 1975 and returned to Tahbilk in May 1978, after working for Mildara Wines in Coonawarra and Merbein for a few years and finishing with a vintage at Hungerford Hill Winery in Sunraysia, and was appointed Chief Winemaker.
My father decided to move to Sydney to open a Tahbilk NSW sales operation in early 1979, which was incredibly successful, and I was appointed Tahbilk General Manager and a director in his absence and then Tahbilk CEO in 1980 at the ripe old age of 26.
I continued as CEO until my semi-retirement on 30 June 2022 and have maintained my director position.
NLN: What are some of the key milestones or lessons in your career that have shaped your understanding of the industry?
AP: When I started with Tahbilk, I felt that I was in an industry information vacuum.
I joined many state and national wine industry bodies initially as a young man so that I could learn more about our industry, as I felt that the more I knew about the industry, the better my strategic decisions would be for our family-owned companies.
As of now, I’ve served in over twelve roles with numerous wine industry peak bodies either as chairman, director, president or member and was also a founder and the inaugural Chair of Australia’s First Families of Wine.
My early-day mentors included giants of the industry such as James Halliday, Brian Croser and the late Len Evans. For most part they didn’t realise this, but I respected them, watched them, and learnt from the decisions they made both good and bad.
Advice for retailers:
NLN: What are you enjoying drinking lately?
AP: Our Eric Stevens Purbrick Cabernet Sauvignon 2018… It has just been released and would have to be one of my favourite wines in the Tahbilk range. I’m no wine connoisseur so won’t use winemaker speak to explain, but in simple terms it’s silky smooth and impressive. A wine that exemplifies the Tahbilk legacy and style, made from some of the best parcels on the estate. A beautiful red to enjoy as the seasons change.
NLN: Which wine varietals do you believe will be most popular in the coming winter?
AP: I think winter wine preferences will still tend towards traditional red varietals like Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, but also lighter varietals like Pinot Noir and Grenache (which are growing in popularity), as well as Chardonnay and Pinot Gris for white wine lovers.
NLN: How do you feel economic pressures are influencing consumers’ purchasing habits in wine?
AP: It’s been widely reported that ongoing economic pressures and market conditions are resulting in consumers trading down across most retail markets. It will be no different in purchasing habits for wine. I would expect that consumers are reducing their purchase frequency. Some consumers will purchase less frequently but will opt for more premium offerings when they do purchase or will opt to purchase wine for in-home consumption versus purchasing out.
NLN: How can retailers successfully engage younger consumers who are less traditional in their wine preferences?
AP: To successfully engage younger, less traditional wine consumers, retailers could consider embracing digital platforms, simplifying wine education, and creating unique experiences in-store or online to engage.
NLN: As a previous Winemaker/CEO and current Board Member at Tahbilk, what are your ambitions for the year ahead?
AP: A lot has changed in the last five years for the Australian wine industry including the closure of the China market in November 2020 and the resultant bulk red wine excesses, a high inflationary environment, high interest rates, a global decrease in wine consumption, dramatic increases in freight and warehouse costs, including shipping containers to export markets, and a retail chain duopoly which command over 80 per cent of total retail sales in Australia.
Notwithstanding the China market reopened in April 2024, sales have been slow as Australian wine re-enters the market and most commentators are predicting a return, over time, to $500 million which is under half of the $1.25 billion market that Australia enjoyed in 2020. It’s worth noting that the Chinese wine market has shrunk by over 50 per cent in recent years due to the challenging economic times this country is dealing with which will be exacerbated by President Trump with the introduction of new import tariffs this year.
All of these challenges will result in the Australian wine industry downsizing by approximately 25 to 30 per cent. The removal of vineyards began last year and will continue for the next three-to-four years until we achieve a supply/demand balance. I might add that France, Italy and Spain are also undergoing a wine industry restructure and downsizing.
Tahbilk has invested in a number of other wine industry related operations over the years which cover vineyards, brands, packaging, winemaking and distribution companies. This collective is now known as the Tahbilk Group.
The effective closure of the China market in November 2020 resulted in significant financial losses for our industry, as well as a huge surplus of bulk red wine which our industry is still dealing with.
The Tahbilk Group was exposed to the China market and profitability suffered. The dramatic increases in freight and warehouse costs has also negatively impacted on our distribution operation, The Wine Company.
The Tahbilk Group board has devised a number of strategies, which are being implemented, which will decrease costs, increase margin and increase sales. Our ambitions for 2025/2026 is to achieve Group breakeven as various strategies are successfully implemented.
Our ambitions for Tahbilk are to continue to drive increased visitations to the winery, and then recruit into and significantly grow its wine club membership and sales.
NLN: What keeps you inspired?
AP: Our people inspire me.
We have well over 200 full-time, part-time and casual staff spread over eight operating entities and all are very much aware that we’re operating in the most challenging times the industry has experienced in over 50 years.
Their collective dedication and passion to make a difference inspires me. Their willingness to embrace change for the benefit of the business is awesome. We will emerge from these tough times quicker and in much better shape because of their combined positive efforts.
NLN: Outside of work, what hobbies do you have, or how do you enjoy your spare time?
AP: I’ve been a snow skier since a young age and continue to enjoy this passion to this day. I chase powder snow in the northern hemisphere wherever I can find it and, the good news is, my family, including grandchildren, and friends are also very keen skiers.
Golf is also on my hit list now and I aim to spend more time pursuing this hobby in the future.
My other passion is built around wine and food, which will be no surprise, and I’ve always been fascinated with how well some wines mature with cellaring. Drinking old and great wine with wonderful food has been a passion since my Roseworthy days and I have built up my wine collection over the years to match my passion.
Oldest wine in the collection dates back to 1903 with almost every decade since then represented.
My guiding philosophy for wine is simple: Life is short, so don’t waste your time drinking mediocre wine. Drink great and, where possible, old wines from wonderful vintages with friends and family.